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25.05.2006
"Inner incomprehensibility" Paco Rabanne in Kiev
Revolution, provocation, innovation use to be Paco Rabanne characteristics, a legend person, making any sphere he works in, more perfect and creative. He is world-known couturier, architector, designer, writer, philosophy and esoteric books’ author, artist, sculptor. He is as well mystic, astrologist, and vegetarian, medium. And that is not the complete list. The world is won with his exclusive fashion collections; and his name is a symbol of novelty and progress in fashion world more than 40 years. The most world famous companies are interested in his designer’s ideas; his books in philosophy and esoteric are published with a circulation of a half of million; his graphic works, impressive, deep, emotional, are the brightest pages of world modern painting… Everything of Maestro’s creatures has a sign of his incomprehensive energy, creative searching way, novelty and experiment. He lives in present and in future, he is interested in creation process’ extremity. While having a number of activity’s spheres he used to thrill only with those helping him to immerse Universe cognition’s way.
Owing to a lot of reasons he is considered the first. That is exactly him to bring into fashion such concept as “avant-garde”, “constructivism”, “unisex”. That is him being the first to demonstrate black skin models, to carry on defile accompanied with music, to introduce in fashion “collection” term. And that is him to show plastic accessories and buttons made for French Haute Couture Houses such as Dior, Balenciaga, Gyvenchy. His first collection by name “12 incomprehensible dresses” created in 1966 was the absolute turn of fashion tendencies while demonstrating innovation women clothes made from incredible relatively technology materials.
One can give his creation different appreciations, but, undoubtedly, he is a genius. “I am myself is a searcher of adventures in spirit sphere”. These are Maestro’s words regarding him. And that is true. Concerning Maestro’s words, exactly this way to own heart is the longest and the most important in any human-being life.
The outstanding designer carries out travel to his heart by means of drawing. While being the great innovator and revolutionary in fashion world, he has found his own niche with creating amazingly deep and emotionally filled graphic works. And while being the great destroyer of bases and traditions, he appears regarding his drawing as a person highly searching sense of life. This question is answered by him, for so his drawings are the incarnation of his private feelings, impressions, emotions, thoughts.
Paco Rabanne has begun to draw from the very childhood when he was 7. He has got his professional education in Paris, at National Architecture school “BOZART”. He study took him 10 years; and after graduation he had got architecture job’, but had immersed in fashion and design world. Probably, his mother while collaborating with Spanish fashion genius Cristobel Balenciaga, had provoked him to make this choice. Bit by bit the designer was going his way. Buttons’ making was the first step and such famous modellers as Balenciaga, Nina Ricci, Gyvenchy, were interested to buy them. 1965 was the exactly year the “name” Paco Rabanne was born. And in 1967 own fashion house was founded by designer.
And within al that period Maestro was drawing – manly for own satisfaction. The only person, whom drawings were shown to, was Salvador Dali. So Paco Rabanne was advised to continue drawing.
Paco Rabanne and his works are both enigma. There are faces, the whole gallery of faces but not of a kind portrait, over there. Moreover, according to Paco Rabanne’s words, these faces are one and the same. This is a face of a person asking the world his question. These are questions, going out of the artist’s heart. Drawn personages seemed to be immersed inside themselves, listening to something from deep inside; trying to hear the own heart’s whisper; to find an answer to a question “Why?”
The incarnated images are sketchy and relative. Using minimal, but perfect art methods, Maestro is highly able to convey astonishingly wide spectrum of emotions and inner being: from tense concentration (“The Lady with a cigarette”, 2001) and sheer joy (“The Beauty”, 2005) to tragic parting (“Mary and Jesus”, 2001). Exactly this line – soft, rounded or rigid, chopped, is highly separate space and form and emphasize the declared images character.
Next series of Maestro’ works is of kind his personal impressions and relations’ with external world emotions. These creations are romantic, full of intimate feelings: “The Beauty” (2005), “The Cloth0cap Boy” (2005), “The Pretty Woman” (2004), “The Lady with a cigarette” (2001).
All the people shown in Paco Rabanne’s works are alone. According to his words, people are alone beginning from their birth. But his loneliness is of another kind – it is a loneliness of a human-being used to go especial way toward him. And this way one can pass just staying alone.
Paco Rabanne’s creativity is a proof and confirmation of that fact self-cognition is the main truth in the world. “The whole life is a way to our heart. And we try to reach it. And nobody can help to any other person.” Maestro’s graphic works are an art reflection of his philosophic relation to the world as well an evidence he used to be a great master, brilliant artist, creator, who changes the world, changes people and their mind, making them to return to themselves.
Olena Kashshay, Art-Critic, Art-Agency “Nevskaya & Kashshay”
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